Continued from prior post...

(because I had to clear another security check at the awful Eilat airport, which is run wild with children coming off of holiday here at the Red Sea).

Anyway, my tent, no. 42, was right near the front of the main sleeping area, and relatively close to the bathrooms. It fronted on a sandy patch, on which they laid carpets for easy walking. The tent itself was an enormous affair, with a queen sized bed, blankets, mosquito netting, and towels folded into bird shapes (like you get on cruises). The floor was part sand and part rug. I was relieved. However, it was sweltering inside so I escaped.

Met Raed in the social area, with the low couches, and we had more tea (these people love their tea) and watched as others began to stumble in. It was a very pleasant way to blow an afternoon (except for the flies).

Before long it was time for my camel ride. I normally avoid such touristy things, but ours was scheduled for sunset and promised to be spectacular. There were only 2 of us on this ride, me and Yukio, from Tokyo. We climbed on (they are a lot taller than you think they are) and set off into Wadi Rum as the sun declined. Was magical, and hard not to imagine myself TE Lawrence. We disembarked 45 minutes later so the camels could rest (they got up at one point and made their way to some scrub to eat...I thought they were running off. Incidentally, camels are utterly unattractive when they eat).

During the ride my camel kept eyeing me, as if to say, "who is the fat bastard torturing me?". At one point, he reached around with teeth bared, I thought to bite, but only to gnaw at an itch on his side, which happened to be under my foot.

A young Russian couple from our camp rode up to our resting place and , instead of enjoying the magnificent vista, proceeded to take photos of each other.

We returned to camp uneventfully once the sun had set.

At night, everyone gathered around in a circle of sofas, at the center of which is a big fire, and we dined on grilled meats, salads, and hummus! One Bedouin stood over a grill and baked Bedouin bread (thin, rectangular sheets like a tortilla). Everything surprisingly good and fresh.

The rest of the night we sat around the fire, tolerated some folk music, drank more tea, and watched the giant silver moon rise. I hadn't sat around a fire in years, and the presence of those dark, etched Arab faces looming in and out of the darkness only made it more magical.

Surprisingly, I slept like a rock, awakened by the call to prayer at 5 am and some dogs fighting in the distance. I rose much later and forced myself into the shower, and was shocked to find warm water! (The bathrooms, I am sure you want to know, were quite clean and well appointed. Still, I am sure Nanna would have nothing to do with any of it).

After breakfast, Raed and I headed for the border, which I crossed successfully. Am sitting in the Eilat airport awaiting my flight. Oy vay, these kids are killing me!